Crop Rotation Planner

Crop rotation is the practice of planting different crop families in different beds each year, in a planned sequence. It is one of the oldest and most effective gardening techniques.

Why crop rotation matters:

1. Prevents soil nutrient depletion. Different plants use and contribute different nutrients. Heavy feeders like tomatoes and peppers deplete nitrogen rapidly. Legumes (beans, peas) actually fix atmospheric nitrogen back into the soil. Rotating ensures no single nutrient is exhausted year after year.

2. Breaks pest and disease cycles. Many soil-borne pests and pathogens are plant-family specific. Clubroot (affects brassicas), tomato blight, onion white rot — all survive in soil waiting for their host plant. Without their host for 2–3 years, populations collapse. A minimum 3-year gap is needed to break most pest cycles effectively.

3. Improves overall yield. Studies show that crops grown in properly rotated beds yield 10–25% more than those in unrotated soil.

The four main families and their roles in rotation:

• Nightshades (Solanaceae): Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes — heavy feeders, deplete nitrogen
• Brassicas (Cruciferae): Cabbage, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts — medium feeders, sulfur-fixing
• Legumes (Fabaceae): Beans, peas, lentils — nitrogen fixers, feed the soil
• Root Vegetables and Alliums: Carrots, onions, garlic, beets — light feeders, help clean soil of pathogens

The classic 4-year rotation sequence: Year 1: Nightshades → Year 2: Brassicas → Year 3: Legumes → Year 4: Roots/Alliums → repeat.

Cucurbits and Leafy Greens can slot in alongside this rotation. Cucurbits (squash, cucumber, melon) are moderate feeders. Leafy greens are light feeders and flexible — they can follow legumes well.

If you have fewer than 4 beds, a 3-year rotation still provides meaningful disease prevention. Fewer than 3 beds: rotation benefits are limited but still worth attempting.