Campus Board Training Calculator
Calculate campus board rung spacing, sets, and rest intervals based on your climbing grade and training goals.
What is campus board training?
The campus board was invented in 1988 by Wolfgang Güllich at the Campus Center gym in Nuremberg, Germany. It is a series of wooden rungs mounted on an overhanging board (typically 15–20° past vertical). Climbers move hand-over-hand up the rungs without using their feet, training explosive upper body power and contact finger strength.
Who should use a campus board:
Campus boarding is an advanced training method. Most coaches recommend a minimum of 2 years of consistent climbing at V4/5.11 or above before starting campus training. Tendons and pulleys need years to adapt, and premature campus training risks serious A2 pulley injuries.
Rung spacing and sizing:
| Rung Size | Width | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Large | 30 mm | Beginners to campus training, warm-up |
| Medium | 22 mm | Intermediate (V5–V8) |
| Small | 15 mm | Advanced (V8+) |
| Micro | 10 mm | Elite only (V11+) |
Standard rung spacing is 22 cm (about 8.5 inches) between centers.
Training volume formula:
Total moves per session = Sets × Moves per set
Rest between sets (seconds) = Moves per set × 20–30
Rest between exercises (minutes) = 3–5
| Training Goal | Sets | Moves/Set | Rest | Total Moves |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Contact strength | 4–6 | 3–4 | 90–120 sec | 12–24 |
| Power (laddering) | 4–6 | 4–6 | 2–3 min | 16–36 |
| Power endurance | 3–4 | 8–12 | 3–5 min | 24–48 |
| Max reach (bumps) | 3–5 | 2–3 | 2–3 min | 6–15 |
Example plan for a V6 climber (power focus):
- Rung size: Medium (22 mm)
- Exercise: Ladders (1-3-5-7)
- Sets: 5
- Rest: 2.5 minutes between sets
- Total moves: 5 × 4 = 20 moves
- Session duration: ~25 minutes (including warm-up)
Weekly programming:
Campus board sessions should be limited to 1–2 per week, always on well-rested days. Never campus board after a hard climbing session — fatigued tendons are injury-prone. Allow 48–72 hours between campus sessions.
Progressive overload:
Progress by: (1) increasing rung skip distance, (2) adding sets, (3) reducing rung size, or (4) adding a weight vest (advanced). Never increase more than one variable at a time.