Hangboard Training Load Calculator

How hangboard training load works:

Hangboard (fingerboard) training is the most effective way to build finger strength for rock climbing. The training load — the total weight your fingers support — is your bodyweight plus any added weight, or minus any assisted weight if you are using a pulley system.

Training load formula:

Load (kg) = Bodyweight + Added weight − Assisted weight

Why load matters:

Finger tendons adapt slowly. Training at the correct load — challenging but not injurious — is critical. Most protocols recommend:

• Beginners: Use a pulley system to reduce load by 10–20% of bodyweight
• Intermediate: Bodyweight hangs on 20mm edges
• Advanced: Add 5–25% of bodyweight using a weight belt or vest

Maximal Hangs Protocol (most researched):

Sets of 10 seconds on, 3 minutes rest × 6 sets per grip position. Work at 80–90% of your maximum load (the weight where you could barely hold 12 seconds).

Repeater Protocol:

7 seconds on, 3 seconds off × 6 reps = 1 set. Rest 3 minutes between sets. Use 60–70% of max load.

Worked example:

Climber weighing 75 kg, using a 10 kg counterweight assist on a pulley:

• Training load = 75 − 10 = 65 kg (87% bodyweight)
• For max hangs: target ~80% = 52 kg → add counterweight of 23 kg

Common edge sizes and what they train:

• 20mm — standard intermediate training edge
• 18mm — advanced, recruits more crimp strength
• 14mm — elite level, high injury risk

Injury prevention:

• Never train hangboard more than 3 days per week
• Warm up thoroughly — at least 10 minutes of easy climbing or wrist circles
• Avoid full crimp on hangboards — half crimp is safer for tendons
• Stop immediately if you feel sharp pulley pain (A2 strain risk)