Campus Board Training Calculator
Calculate campus board rung spacing, sets, reps, and rest intervals from climbing grade and goal.
Returns beginner, intermediate, and max recruitment protocols.
What is campus board training?
The campus board was invented in 1988 by Wolfgang Güllich at the Campus Center gym in Nuremberg, Germany. It is a series of wooden rungs mounted on an overhanging board (typically 15–20° past vertical). Climbers move hand-over-hand up the rungs without using their feet, training explosive upper body power and contact finger strength.
Who should use a campus board:
Campus boarding is an advanced training method. Most coaches recommend a minimum of 2 years of consistent climbing at V4/5.11 or above before starting campus training. Tendons and pulleys need years to adapt, and premature campus training risks serious A2 pulley injuries.
Rung spacing and sizing:
| Rung Size | Width | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Large | 30 mm | Beginners to campus training, warm-up |
| Medium | 22 mm | Intermediate (V5–V8) |
| Small | 15 mm | Advanced (V8+) |
| Micro | 10 mm | Elite only (V11+) |
Standard rung spacing is 22 cm (about 8.5 inches) between centers.
Training volume:
Total moves per session = Sets × Moves per set
Rest between sets is set by the goal rather than by a formula, because what you are recovering is the nervous system, not the muscle. Contact-strength work needs 90 to 120 seconds, power work 2 to 3 minutes, and power endurance 3 to 5. Allow 3 to 5 minutes between different exercises.
| Training Goal | Sets | Moves/Set | Rest | Total Moves |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Contact strength | 4–6 | 3–4 | 90–120 sec | 12–24 |
| Power (laddering) | 3–6 | 4–6 | 2–3 min | 12–36 |
| Power endurance | 2–4 | 8–12 | 3–5 min | 16–48 |
| Max reach (bumps) | 3–5 | 2–3 | 2–3 min | 6–15 |
The calculator picks a point inside each of those ranges according to your level, starting at the low end for a newcomer to campus boarding and working up.
Example plan for a V6 climber (power focus):
- Rung size: Medium (22 mm)
- Exercise: Ladders (1-3-5-7)
- Sets: 4
- Rest: 2.5 minutes between sets
- Total moves: 4 × 4 = 16 moves
- Session duration: about 19 minutes, plus your warm-up
Sixteen moves sounds like almost nothing, and that is the point. Campus boarding is a nervous-system stimulus, not a workout. If you finish a session feeling worked, the session was too long.
Weekly programming:
Campus board sessions should be limited to 1–2 per week, always on well-rested days. Never campus board after a hard climbing session. Fatigued tendons are injury-prone. Allow 48–72 hours between campus sessions.
Progressive overload:
Progress by: (1) increasing rung skip distance, (2) adding sets, (3) reducing rung size, or (4) adding a weight vest (advanced). Never increase more than one variable at a time.
How we build and check this calculator
This calculator runs entirely in your browser, so the numbers you enter stay on your device. The math behind it is written by hand and tested against worked examples and standard references before the page goes live.
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